Canon1014XL-S: how to disassemble
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How to disassemble Canon 1014 XL-S[edit]
First off remove the batteries before doing anything. There are micro-controlled circuits in the camera, you don't want to cause a short circuit and burn something up. Also be very cautious of static electricity, ground yourself well before opening up the camera.
A dental pick set helps to remove all the plates and panels, proper tools will make the job easier and keeps from tearing things up any more than necessary.
Most of the screws are tighten very hard, therefore a phillips 000 with a thick long grip will make the task a bit less hard. You'll also need a 2mm flat driver in a few areas. Unfortunately in the majority of the components of this camera a single worn out screw can be enough to put a stop to the task of dissemblance.
Screws to remove in no particular order to remove the left bezel (and partially the right bezel):
- Behind Canon Logo faceplate (above the lens, work the edge carefully as it is easy to break, its glued and has two small notches)
- Underneath front bottom rubber piece. Only the black screw on the top right is necessary, nor the silver screws or the tripod base are attached to the body bezel with the buttons (left side).
- Underneath rear bottom right next to serial number plate, but NOT the serial number plate.
- Underneath zoom control plate.
- Once you have the Canon front plate and the zoom plate out, unscrew the silver bridge in the center on the left screw attached to left bezel side.
- Behind rubber cap that holds the screw for the shoulder strap (rear strap bar). Unscrew the bar first then the black single screw underneath it.
NOTE: On the 1014XL-S there is a buried "C" clamp (a very small "C" clamp underneath the switch cap for the fade in/fade out function. Pry the cap off the center push button with a dentists pick to expose the shaft with the "C" clamp attached underneath. Do NOT touch any of the other buttons on the left bezel. The buttons don't need to come off and they'll stay attached to the bezel once it comes off.
Do not pry on the cover very much if at all, once you've found all the screws it will come off with little effort.
If you get frustrated with one of the hidden covers, go take a stab at one of the others, or just plain take a break. Sometimes removing one of the easier covers will give some insight on how to tackle the harder ones. A cutter might make things easier when you're prying the covers since they are glued. It may take several hours the first time around to find everything.
After you remove the cover note the fact that all of the panel mounted controls have some sort of plastic shaft that reaches into recesses of the controls on the circuit board. When its time to re-assemble, center all the control on the printed circuit board and then center the controls on the side plate and attempt to re-assemble.
DO NOT RE-INSTALL all of the screws until you've temporarily installed batteries and checked all the control functions. Also the view finder (open/close) control is a pain to get back the first time, it'll probably take a couple of trial runs to get everything lined up and working.
To remove the right cover (bezel) first you have to remove the grip. The grip is composed of two halves. Start with the outer half which has six screws. 2 are visible and 4 are the rugged sticker that helps give the grip its texture. Removing the whole sticker is quite a difficult task. It makes things easier if you cut small holes in the four corners where the screws are. Try to use a magnet to locate their positions.
Once the front part is removed you can proceed to the back of the grip which has 4 screws; one visible, one next to the rotating attachment and two underneath the plate.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory but I'll try to write more about it in the future as I move along.
Based on instructions by JCook on the www.filmshooting.com forum, transcribed with permission by ReedSturtevant October 6, 2006
